First, a fish identification correction: What we thought might be a small halibut was really a rock sole. We borrowed some flour (thanks Deb!), Nick fried it up with our handful of prawns, and made fish & prawn tostadas! Yum!

On the way from Toba Wilderness to Refuge Cove we passed this Coast Guard Cutter. It was towing buoys and I read later that it is a fisheries research ship.

Two years ago, we pulled into Refuge Cove, took a walk around, and left. Nothing was open but the store, and the whole place seemed run down and unwelcoming. After hearing recent positive comments from others, we decided to give it another try. Yes, it is a bit run down but the store is good, the restaurant and gallery were open, and the really bad dock has been removed. It is picturesque, with rocky bluffs and boardwalks leading to local homes and fish shacks. Glad we decided to stay.

Departing Refuge Cove:

With a little nicer weather, we decided it was time to throw out the anchors. Both boats left Refuge Cove and headed to Desolation Sound Provincial Marine Park – specifically Prideaux Haven’s Melanie Cove. This is one of the areas described in the book The Curve of Time. We’ve been here before and it’s just as beautiful as we remember.

Entering the park, a narrow channel with lots of ins and outs. Aris making her way into Melanie Cove:

Both boats anchored and stern tied, with twelve boats in the small cove for the first night.

Although it rained for a bit right after we arrived, we put our kayaks in the water and paddled through tons of moon jellies and other wild life.

Oyster catcher closeup:

Five preening mergansers:

Properly primped red mohawk:

Bat star:

Some of the purple-est purple sea stars ever purpled by the hand of mother nature:

Merganser mom and babies:

Oh, this rock is so heavy!

On Tuesday we kayaked again in the morning and hiked the trail to Laura Cove. After lunch we kayaked again into Laura Cove. Nick and I agree this may be the most spectacular kayaking experience yet. Lots of small coves to explore, in extremely clear water. The sea floor in the shallow areas was strewn with snails, clam shells, sand dollars, and oysters. Weather was perfect.

Sea cucumber:

Sitting in the rain at anchor in Melanie Cove this morning;

Fourteen boats the second night.

Anchors aweigh and off to Gorge Harbour, Cortes Island.

Nice cruise except for this arse who crossed our bow too closely…yes, I reported him.

We are now at Gorge Harbour Marina Resort. We were here in July of 2018 in our Ranger Tug for a factory Desolation Sound trip. I didn’t remember much about it until I started walking around. Nice place. If it stops pouring, we might go for a walk and Nick might use the hot tub.

Side note about our itinerary: We have kept our return plans fluid, basically giving this trip four to six weeks. Since it seemed we were going to get back to Tacoma shortly after July 4th, we decided to shave off a couple of destinations and make sure we get back for the McQuarrie Cabin July 4th festivities. We’ll save those destinations for future trips. As Deb always says, “Assume you’ll return,” which I believe is a Rick Steves quote. Makes total sense.

Speaking of Deb, she just delivered freshly baked cookies! Yum!!